The 1718 Silk Coverlet
The 1718 coverlet was bought by The Quilters’ Guild at auction in September 2000. Until that time it had been in the possession of the Brown family of Aldbourne Wiltshire for many years.
The coverlet is an outstanding historical piece, and the worked date of 1718 identifies it as one of the earliest known dated patchworks.The 1718 Silk CoverletThe 1718 coverlet was bought by The Quilters’ Guild at auction in September 2000. Until that time it had been in the possession of the Brown family of Aldbourne Wiltshire for many years.
The coverlet is an outstanding historical piece, and the worked date of 1718 identifies it as one of the earliest known dated patchworks.
The coverlet measures approximately 169 x 185cms (66 ½ x 73 inches) and is made up of basic units of 11cm (4 ½ inches) square. The block containing the date also has the two initials "E" and "H" worked into it.
The coverlet is made from silk fabrics apart from 6 pieces of wool velvet or plush and is constructed in the technique known as “piecing over papers”, where the fabric is folded and tacked over a paper shape before being stitched together. The blocks have been stitched together with white linen thread. The tacking remains in place and unusually is worked through the back fold of the fabric and the papers only, no tacking can be seen on the front of the coverlet. The back of the coverlet is linen, pieced together in the form of a crazy patchwork of recycled pieces.
The fact that the papers have not been removed, even though it has a backing, has helped to preserve the coverlet. The coverlet was x-rayed by a special radiography machine in the hope that the papers would provide some information about the maker and her life at the time the quilt was made but sadly this did not happen and the papers are keeping their secrets. It was however discovered that some of the fabrics had originally had gold patterns on them, which have since vanished. Extensive genealogical research in to the family and the area where they lived has failed to identify the owners of the initials E and H and the maker of the coverlet remains unknown.
Almost all the fabrics are dress fabrics, the majority of which show signs of previous use. There are over 120 different fabric designs used and the oldest fabric has been identified as being from the 1640's.
There is a great variety in the block designs. Simple geometric designs are pieced alongside complex representational motifs including; hearts, a man and a woman, stylised flowers, tulips, a partridge, pheasant, deer, a cat with a bird in its mouth, dog, rabbit, swan, goose, butterfly, lion and a unicorn. The construction of each of these motif units is complex with even components such as beaks, legs and tails for the animals and stems and leaves for the flowers being worked as separate pieces over papers.
As the original coverlet is too fragile for display except in specialist museum conditions the guild decided to make a replica to duplicate as far as possible the to size, colour and fabrics of the original. The replica also used the same method of construction. Our expert “replicators” were our own members. The project was launched at the AGM in Scarborough in 2002 when members were asked to volunteer to make a block, the cost of materials and postage being covered by donations. Pauline Adams who masterminded the construction of the replica coverlet had great difficulty obtaining appropriate fabrics, skilled dyers provided some indigo dyed silks and Pauline painted some herself. Some fabrics had to be ‘recreated’ using modern computer technology. The result is a look-a-like, as good- as- new coverlet that can now be displayed. By the exhibition of the replica The Guild hopes that people around the world will appreciate the beauty and interest of this our most important historical item.
As the earliest dated example of British patchwork the coverlet has a profound importance and relevance not only to patchwork and quilting but also the cultural and social history of the British Isles and beyond. The 1718 coverlet has been conserved and is now in a condition that will keep it safe for occasional display hopefully for many years to come. The cost of this important conservation has been met by the generosity of several grant-making bodies and we are most grateful for the financial contribution and their recognition of the immense historical value of this magnificent quilt.
Detailed information about the 1718 coverlet is published by The Quilters' Guild in Quilt Studies, issue 4/5.
1718 Silk Coverlet Replica Project
It was decided to make a facsimile or replica of The Guild's most important acquisition, the 1718 silk patchwork coverlet. This is now standard procedure in the museum world for objects which are too fragile to be exhibited, or which are needed for exhibition in two places at once.
Our expert `replicators` were our own members and the result, a look-a-like, as-good-as-new coverlet that can be exhibited. This project was launched at the AGM in 2002, when members were asked to volunteer to make a block. In parallel, donations were asked for to cover the cost of materials and postage.
The original coverlet was made from silk, sewn over papers with linen thread (15-20 stitches to the inch!) and with a linen backing. It has fifteen 11cm blocks, giving an equivalent of 255 blocks. Many blocks are easy straight-seam patchwork, others have curving motifs in a patchwork surround and the really challenging ones have figures of animals or flowers inset. Some blocks have been amalgamated to make larger elements such as nine making a star or six a goose.
The magnificent 1718 coverlet has been to a specialist conservationist for treatment that will keep it safe for occasional display for many years to come. We have been able to raise the whole of the cost through the generosity of several grant-making bodies.
We are most grateful to these bodies both for their financial contribution and for their recognition of the immense historic interest of this quilt.
The completed replica has already been on display and should allow people to appreciate the design of the original without having to display it for too long. The original had a rare outing at the opening exhibition at The Quilt Museum and Gallery set up by The Quilters' Guild at our new Head Office in York where it was on show from June to October 2008. It will now be rested for some time to preserve it for future generations.
Our expert `replicators` were our own members and the result, a look-a-like, as-good-as-new coverlet that can be exhibited. This project was launched at the AGM in 2002, when members were asked to volunteer to make a block. In parallel, donations were asked for to cover the cost of materials and postage.
The original coverlet was made from silk, sewn over papers with linen thread (15-20 stitches to the inch!) and with a linen backing. It has fifteen 11cm blocks, giving an equivalent of 255 blocks. Many blocks are easy straight-seam patchwork, others have curving motifs in a patchwork surround and the really challenging ones have figures of animals or flowers inset. Some blocks have been amalgamated to make larger elements such as nine making a star or six a goose.
The magnificent 1718 coverlet has been to a specialist conservationist for treatment that will keep it safe for occasional display for many years to come. We have been able to raise the whole of the cost through the generosity of several grant-making bodies.
We are most grateful to these bodies both for their financial contribution and for their recognition of the immense historic interest of this quilt.
The completed replica has already been on display and should allow people to appreciate the design of the original without having to display it for too long. The original had a rare outing at the opening exhibition at The Quilt Museum and Gallery set up by The Quilters' Guild at our new Head Office in York where it was on show from June to October 2008. It will now be rested for some time to preserve it for future generations.
The 1718 Coverlet –Update March 2008
At the BQSG seminar held in Norwich in November 2007 Bridget Long presented a paper on the use of a new photographic technique which has revealed some of the secrets of the papers within the 1718 coverlet.
The introduction to Bridget Long’s Paper follows and the full story is revealed in Quilt studies – issue 9, available in May 2008.
UNCOVERING HIDDEN MARKS ON THE 1718 SILK PATCHWORK COVERLET
Since its acquisition by The Quilters’ Guild of the British Isles in 2000, the 1718 Silk
Patchwork Coverlet has been the subject of much research regarding aspects of its manufacture as well as the social environment in which it was made. This led to an entire issue of Quilt Studies, the journal of the British Quilt Study Group, being devoted to the 1718 coverlet in 2003.[i][i] That publication recorded a preliminary exploration into the use of photographic techniques to identify textual detail on the papers used in the construction of the patchwork and noted that promising results had been obtained with the hope that further investigations may be possible.
This paper will describe further developments of this photographic technique using transmitted visible light that was explored by staff at the Textile Conservation Centre at Winchester and will explore the results of the test and main research phase. Their methodology, the extent of their research work, the results and the potential risks the technique may pose to the silks have all been described in two separate papers and are not be outlined in detail here.[ii][ii] This paper will go on to consider the implication of some marks found during the research project in relation to the design, drafting and construction of the coverlet and their bearing on the study of British piecing techniques in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries.
[i][i] Tina Fenwick Smith et al The 1718 Silk Patchwork Coverlet Quilt Studies Issue 5 (2003) 24-109[ii][ii] Karen N Thompson and Michael Halliwell ‘An initial exploration of the benefits of using transmitted visible light and infrared photography to access information concealed within multilayered textiles’ Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles Postprints of the first annual conference of the AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies 13-15 July 2004 (London Archetype Publications 2005) 177-184Karen N Thompson and Michael Halliwell ‘Who put the text in textiles? Deciphering text hidden within a 1718 coverlet: Documentation of papers hidden within an early eighteenth century coverlet using transmitted light photography’ Textiles and Text Postprints of the third annual conference of the AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies 11-13 July 2006 (London Archetype Publications 2007)
The introduction to Bridget Long’s Paper follows and the full story is revealed in Quilt studies – issue 9, available in May 2008.
UNCOVERING HIDDEN MARKS ON THE 1718 SILK PATCHWORK COVERLET
Since its acquisition by The Quilters’ Guild of the British Isles in 2000, the 1718 Silk
Patchwork Coverlet has been the subject of much research regarding aspects of its manufacture as well as the social environment in which it was made. This led to an entire issue of Quilt Studies, the journal of the British Quilt Study Group, being devoted to the 1718 coverlet in 2003.[i][i] That publication recorded a preliminary exploration into the use of photographic techniques to identify textual detail on the papers used in the construction of the patchwork and noted that promising results had been obtained with the hope that further investigations may be possible.
This paper will describe further developments of this photographic technique using transmitted visible light that was explored by staff at the Textile Conservation Centre at Winchester and will explore the results of the test and main research phase. Their methodology, the extent of their research work, the results and the potential risks the technique may pose to the silks have all been described in two separate papers and are not be outlined in detail here.[ii][ii] This paper will go on to consider the implication of some marks found during the research project in relation to the design, drafting and construction of the coverlet and their bearing on the study of British piecing techniques in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries.
[i][i] Tina Fenwick Smith et al The 1718 Silk Patchwork Coverlet Quilt Studies Issue 5 (2003) 24-109[ii][ii] Karen N Thompson and Michael Halliwell ‘An initial exploration of the benefits of using transmitted visible light and infrared photography to access information concealed within multilayered textiles’ Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historic Textiles Postprints of the first annual conference of the AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies 13-15 July 2004 (London Archetype Publications 2005) 177-184Karen N Thompson and Michael Halliwell ‘Who put the text in textiles? Deciphering text hidden within a 1718 coverlet: Documentation of papers hidden within an early eighteenth century coverlet using transmitted light photography’ Textiles and Text Postprints of the third annual conference of the AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies 11-13 July 2006 (London Archetype Publications 2007)